Old Hollywood makeup is a classic symbol of beauty, blending timeless sophistication with polished perfection. However, this iconic look isn’t confined to the past—it can be updated for modern-day appeal.
“There’s a certain effortless elegance in Old Hollywood beauty,” says makeup artist Benjamin Puckey. “It’s about enhancing natural features in the most flattering way, rather than chasing trends.”
Makeup artist Melanie Inglessis describes the look as polished and glamorous. While staples like bold lips and cat eyes are essential, today’s interpretations feature playful colors, softened lines, and fresh, dewy skin. These tweaks bring a modern edge to retro beauty while retaining its timeless charm.
The secret? Balance. “Let one feature take the spotlight,” says Puckey. “Whether it’s a bold lip or a defined eye, keep everything else understated.”
Here are eight steps to master Old Hollywood makeup with a contemporary twist.
Step 1: Choose a Natural-Looking Base
Traditional Old Hollywood makeup favors matte skin, but modern interpretations opt for a radiant, dewy finish.
“To achieve this, use a foundation that feels like a second skin,” suggests Fara Homidi, recommending her Essential Face Compact for breathable coverage with a natural glow. For added luminosity, mix a hydrating serum like Isamaya SkinLaq into your foundation. Products like Dior Forever Skin Perfect Foundation Stick or Armani Luminous Silk work wonders for this updated approach.
Step 2: Accentuate with Blush
Blush can shape and define your face while adding a natural flush.
“Think of blush as a contour,” says Puckey. “Apply it high on the cheekbones for a lifting effect, horizontally to balance longer faces, or on the apples of the cheeks for softer features.” He suggests liquid blushes in pinks or mauves, such as Hourglass Unreal Liquid Blush in Whim or Saie Dew Blush in Chilly, set with a light powder for a seamless look.
Step 3: Add a Luminous Highlighter
Highlighting is essential for dimension and glow.
“A little highlight goes a long way,” says Inglessis, recommending RMS Living Lumizer Glow Quad for a subtle effect. Puckey prefers Clé De Peau Beauté Luminizing Face Enhancer in Golden Galaxy for its skin-melting finish. Apply it to high points of the face, the inner corners of the eyes, and even the bridge of the nose for a contemporary nod to Marlene Dietrich’s iconic look.
Step 4: Keep the Shadow Neutral
Soft, neutral tones are the key to Old Hollywood eyes.
“I love Chanel’s eye quad in Clair-Obscure for its dreamy, subtle colors,” says Homidi. Puckey opts for taupes or warm beiges with a satin finish, blending softly over the crease for understated elegance.
Step 5: Add a Cat Eye
A flick of eyeliner defines the eyes while adding drama.
“Clé De Peau Beauté’s Intensifying Liquid Liner is perfect for creating a sleek, precise wing,” says Puckey. Inglessis recommends using a coal pencil, like Victoria Beckham Beauty Satin Kajal Liner, for a softer, smudged effect. “It feels less harsh and more modern,” she says.
Step 6: Emphasize Lashes
Lashes are vital for that seductive, Old Hollywood allure.
“Apply mascara starting at the middle of the iris and pull outwards for ‘bedroom eyes,’” suggests Homidi. Individual lashes, like Lashify Eyelash Extensions, can also provide a natural, glamorous effect. Inglessis recommends Dark Swan of Denmark lashes for subtle volume without overpowering the look.
Step 7: Define Your Brows
Brows frame the face, so a refined shape is essential.
“Think Marilyn Monroe or Elizabeth Taylor—each had a unique style,” says Homidi. Puckey uses Kosas Brow Pop Nano Pencil for soft definition, finishing with Anastasia Volumizing Tinted Brow Gel for a natural hold. Inglessis suggests a groomed brow that follows the natural shape for a modern touch.
Step 8: Try a Bold, Blurred Lip
A bold lip is the hallmark of Old Hollywood glamour.
“To modernize it, go for a blurred effect,” says Homidi, who uses her Smudge and Contour Lip Pencil in Premier. Puckey loves Clé De Peau Beauté Cream Rouge Matte in Strawberry Rhubarb, a striking blue-red he developed. For an alternative, Inglessis recommends magenta or dark red hues, or even soft pinks and nudes for a fresh take.
With these tips, you can create a makeup look that’s both timeless and modern—an ideal blend of Old Hollywood glamour and contemporary elegance.